CHAPTER XI.
ALONG
THE COAST.
Coronation Gulf, the
large estuary dotted with the islands forming the Duke of York Archipelago,
which the party had now reached, was a sheet of water with irregular banks, let
in, as it were, into the North American continent. At its western angle opened
the mouth of the Coppermine; and on the east a long narrow creek called
Bathurst Inlet ran into the mainland, from which stretched the jagged broken
coast with its pointed capes and rugged promontories, ending in that confusion
of straits, sounds, and channels which gives such a strange appearance to the
maps of North America. On the other side the coast turned abruptly to the north
beyond the mouth of the Coppermine River, and ended in Cape Krusenstern.
After consulting with
Sergeant Long, Lieutenant Hobson decided to give his party a day’s rest
here.
The exploration,
properly so called, which was to enable the Lieutenant to fix upon a suitable
site for the establishment of a fort, was now really about to begin. The
Company had advised him to keep as much as possible above the seventieth
parallel, and on the shores of the Arctic Ocean. To obey his orders Hobson was
obliged to keep to the west; for on the east—with the exception, perhaps,
of the land of Boothia, crossed by the seventieth parallel—the whole
country belongs rather to the Arctic Circle, and the geographical conformation
of Boothia is as yet but imperfectly known.
After carefully
ascertaining the latitude and longitude, and verifying his position by the map,
the Lieutenant found that he was a hundred miles below the seventieth degree.
But beyond Cape Krusenstern, the coast-line, running in a north-easterly
direction, abruptly crosses the seventieth parallel at a sharp angle near the
one hundred and thirtieth meridian, and at about the same elevation as Cape
Bathurst, the spot named as a rendezvous by Captain Craventy. He must therefore
make for that point, and should the site appear suitable the new fort would be
erected there.
“There,”
said the Lieutenant to his subordinate, Long, “we shall be in the
position ordered by the Company. There the sea, open for a great part of the
year, will allow the vessels from Behring Strait to come right up to the fort,
bringing us fresh provisions and taking away our commodities.”
“Not to
mention,” added Sergeant Long, “that our men will be entitled to
double pay all the time they are beyond the seventieth parallel.”
“Of course that is
understood,” replied Hobson; “and I daresay they will accept it
without a murmur.”
“Well then,
Lieutenant,” said Long simply, “we have now only to start for Cape
Bathurst.”
But as a day of rest had
been promised, the start did not actually take place until the next day, June
6th.
The second part of the
journey would naturally be very different from the first. The rules with regard
to the sledges keeping their rank need no longer be enforced, and each couple
drove as it pleased them. Only short distances were traversed at a time; halts
were made at every angle of the coast, and the party often walked. Lieutenant
Hobson only urged two things upon his companions not to go further than three
miles from the coast, and to rally their forces twice a day, at twelve
o’clock and in the evening. At night they all encamped in tents.
The weather continued
very fine and the temperature moderate, maintaining a mean height of 59°
Fahrenheit above zero. Two or three times sudden snowstorms came on; but they
did not last long, and exercised no sensible influence upon the temperature.
The whole of the
American coast between Capes Krusenstern and Parry, comprising an extent of
more than two hundred and fifty miles, was examined with the greatest care
between the 6th and 20th of June. Geographical observations were accurately
taken, and Hobson, most effectively aided by Thomas Black, was able to rectify
certain errors in previous marine surveys; whilst the primary object of the
expedition—the examination into the quality and quantity of the game in
the surrounding districts-was not neglected.
Were these lands well
stocked with game? Could they count with certainty not only on a good supply of
furs, but also of meat? Would the resources of the country provide a fort with
provisions in the summer months at least? Such were the grave questions which
Lieutenant Hobson had to solve, and which called for immediate attention. We
give a summary of the conclusions at which he arrived.
Game, properly so
called, of the kind for which Corporal Joliffe amongst others had a special
predilection, was not abundant. There were plenty of birds of the duck tribe;
but only a few Polar hares, difficult of approach, poorly represented the
rodents of the north. There seemed, however, to be a good many bears about.
Marbre and Sabine had come upon the fresh traces of several. Some were even
seen and tracked; but, as a rule, they kept at a respectful distance. In the
winter, however, driven by famine from higher latitudes, there would probably
be more than enough of these ravenous beasts prowling about the shores of the
Arctic Ocean.
“There is
certainly no denying,” said Corporal Joliffe, “that bear’s
flesh is very good eating when once it’s in the larder; but there is
something very problematical about it beforehand, and it’s always just
possible that the hunters themselves may meet the fate they intended for the
bears!”
This was true enough. It
was no use counting upon the bears to provision their fort. Fortunately traces
were presently found of herds of a far more useful animal, the flesh of which
is the principal food of the Indians and Esquimaux. We allude to the reindeer;
and Corporal Joliffe announced with the greatest satisfaction that there were
plenty of these ruminants on this coast. The ground was covered with the lichen
to which they are so partial, and which they cleverly dig out from under the
snow.
There could be no
mistake as to the footprints left by the reindeer, as, like the camel, they
have a small nail-like hoof with a convex surface. Large herds, sometimes
numbering several thousand animals, are seen running wild in certain parts of
America. Being easily domesticated, they are employed to draw sledges; and they
also supply the factories with excellent milk, more nourishing than that of
cows. Their dead bodies are not less useful. Their thick skin provides clothes,
their hair makes very good thread, and their flesh is palatable; so that they
are really the most valuable animals to be found in these latitudes, and
Hobson, being assured of their presence, was relieved from half his anxiety.
As he advanced he had
also reason to be satisfied with regard to the fur-bearing animals. By the
little streams rose many beaver lodges and musk-rat tunnels. Badgers, lynxes,
ermines, wolverenes, sables, polecats, &c., frequented these districts,
hitherto undisturbed by hunters. They had thus far come to no trace of the
presence of man, and the animals had chosen their refuge well. Footprints were
also found of the fine blue and silver foxes, which are becoming more and more
rare, and the fur of which is worth its weight in gold. Sabine and Mac-Nab
might many a time have shot a very valuable animal on this excursion, but the
Lieutenant had wisely forbidden all hunting of the kind. He did not wish to
alarm the animals before the approaching season-that is to say, before the
winter months, when their furs become thicker and more beautiful. It was also
desirable not to overload the sledges. The hunters saw the force of his
reasoning; but for all that, their fingers itched when they came within
shot-range of a sable or some valuable fox. Their Lieutenant’s orders
were, however, not to be disobeyed.
Polar bears and birds
were, therefore, all that the hunters had to practise upon in this second stage
of their journey. The former, however, not yet rendered bold by hunger, soon
scampered off, and no serious struggle with them ensued.
The poor birds suffered
for the enforced immunity of the quadrupeds. White-headed eagles, huge birds
with a harsh screeching cry; fishing hawks, which build their nests in dead
trees and migrate to the Arctic regions in the summer; snow buntings with pure
white plumage, wild geese, which afford the best food of all the Anseres
tribe; ducks with red heads and black breasts; ash-coloured crows, a kind of
mocking jay of extreme ugliness; eider ducks; scoters or black divers, &c.
&c., whose mingled cries awake the echoes of the Arctic regions, fell
victims by hundreds to the unerring aim of Marbre and Sabine. These birds haunt
the high latitudes by millions, and it would -be impossible to form an accurate
estimate of their number on the shores of the Arctic Ocean. Their flesh formed
a very pleasant addition to the daily rations of biscuit and corned beef, and
we can understand that the hunters laid up a good stock of them in the fifteen
days during which they were debarred from attacking more valuable game.
There would then be no
lack of animal food; the magazines of the Company would be well stocked with
game, and its offices filled with furs and traders; but something more was
wanted to insure success to the undertaking. Would it be possible to obtain a
sufficient supply of fuel to contend with the rigour of an Arctic winter at so
elevated a latitude?
Most fortunately the
coast, was well wooded; the hills which sloped down towards the sea were
crowned with green trees, amongst which the pine predominated. Some of the
woods might even be called forests, and would constitute an admirable reserve
of timber for the fort. Here and there Hobson noticed isolated groups of
willows, poplars, dwarf birch-trees, and numerous thickets of arbutus. At this
time of the warm season all these trees were covered with verdure, and were an
unexpected and refreshing sight to eyes so long accustomed to the rugged,
barren polar landscape. The ground at the foot of the hills was carpeted with a
short herbage devoured with avidity by the reindeer, and forming their only
sustenance in winter. On the whole, then, the Lieutenant had reason to
congratulate himself on having chosen the north-west of the American continent
for the foundation of a new settlement.
We have said that these
territories, so rich in animals, were apparently deserted by men. The
travellers saw neither Esquimaux, who prefer the districts round Hudson’s
Bay, nor Indians, who seldom venture so far beyond the Arctic Circle. And
indeed in these remote latitudes hunters may be overtaken by storms, or be
suddenly surprised by winter, and cut off from all communication with their
fellow-creatures. We can easily imagine that Lieutenant Hobson was by no means
sorry not to meet any rival explorers. What he wanted was an unoccupied
country, a deserted land, suitable as a refuge for the fur-bearing animals; and
in this matter he had the full sympathy of Mrs Barnett, who, as the guest of
the Company, naturally took a great interest in the success of its schemes.
Fancy, then, the
disappointment of the Lieutenant, when on the morning of the 20th June he came
to an encampment but recently abandoned.
It was situated at the
end of a narrow creek called Darnley Bay, of which Cape Parry is the
westernmost point. There at the foot of a little hill were the stakes which had
served to mark the limits of the camp, and heaps of cinders, the extinct embers
of the fires.
The whole party met at
this encampment, and all understood how great a disappointment it involved for
Lieutenant Hobson.
“What a
pity!” he exclaimed. “I would rather have met a whole family of
polar bears!”
“But I daresay the
men who encamped here are already far off,” said Mrs Barnett; “very
likely they have returned to their usual hunting grounds.”
“That is as it may
be,” replied the Lieutenant. “If these be the traces of Esquimaux,
they are more likely to have gone on than to have turned back; and if they be
those of Indians, they are probably, like ourselves, seeking a new hunting
district; and in either case it will be very unfortunate for us.”
“But,” said
Mrs Barnett, “cannot we find out to what race the travellers do belong?
Can’t we ascertain if they be Esquimaux or Indians from the south? I
should think tribes of such a different origin, and of such dissimilar customs,
would not encamp in the same manner.”
Mrs Barnett was right;
they might possibly solve the mystery after a thorough examination of the
ground.
Jaspar Hobson and others
set to work, carefully examining every trace, every object left behind, every
mark on the ground; but in vain, there was nothing to guide them to a decided
opinion. The bones of some animals scattered about told them nothing, and the
Lieutenant, much annoyed, was about to abandon the useless search, when he
heard an exclamation from Mrs Joliffe, who had wandered a little way to the
left.
All hurried towards the
young Canadian, who remained fixed to the spot, looking attentively at the
ground before her.
As her companions came
up she said—
“You are looking
for traces, Lieutenant; well, here are some.”
And Mrs Joliffe pointed
to a good many footprints clearly visible in the firm clay.
These might reveal
something; for the feet of the Indians and Esquimaux, as well as their boots,
are totally different from each other.
But what chiefly struck
Lieutenant Hobson was the strange arrangement of these impressions. They were
evidently made by a human foot, a shod foot; but, strange to say, the ball
alone appeared to have touched the ground! The marks were very numerous, close
together, often crossing one another, but confined to a very small circle.
Jaspar Hobson called the
attention of the rest of the party to this singular circumstance.
“These were not
made by a person walking,” he said.
“Nor by a person
jumping,” added Mrs Barnett; “for there is no mark of a
heel.”
“No,” said
Mrs Joliffe; “these footprints were left by a dancer.”
She was right, as
further examination proved. They were the marks left by a dancer, and a dancer
engaged in some light and graceful exercise, for they were neither clumsy nor
deep.
But who could the
light-hearted individual be who had been impelled to dance in this sprightly
fashion some degrees above the Arctic Circle?
“It was certainly
not an Esquimaux,” said the Lieutenant.
“Nor an
Indian,” cried Corporal Joliffe.
“No, it was a
Frenchman,” said Sergeant Long quietly.
And all agreed that none
but a Frenchman could have been capable of dancing on such a spot.
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